Northern Lights Forecast for Portree

Northern Lights in Portree

Portree is the main town on the Isle of Skye, with a harbour lined with painted houses and most of the island’s shops, restaurants and places to stay. It works as a base for trying to see the aurora on the west coast of Scotland, as long as you know what to expect. Skye is well south of Shetland and Orkney, so the northern lights here usually need a strong geomagnetic storm. On most active nights a display is a low glow over the northern sea horizon that a camera picks up far better than your eyes. Bright, colourful nights do happen on Skye, but not often.

North Trotternish and Waternish

Portree’s harbour looks east towards Raasay rather than north, and even a small town’s lights can hide a faint display. You will do better on a coast with an open view north:

• Staffin and the north of Trotternish: Staffin is on the north-east coast of the Trotternish peninsula, about 17 miles north of Portree on the A855. Keep going around the tip of the peninsula past Kilmaluag and Duntulm for wide views north across the Minch.
• Waternish: Around 40 minutes’ drive from Portree, this quiet peninsula has very little artificial light and three of Skye’s Dark Sky Discovery Sites, including Trumpan and Stein. The views here are mainly west and north-west towards the Outer Hebrides.

Skye has nine Dark Sky Discovery Sites, all rated Milky Way class, but most of the others are in the south and east of the island around Broadford, Kylerhea, Kinloch and Armadale. They are good for stargazing, but for the aurora a clear northern horizon matters more than the designation. The same goes for Neist Point. It is often suggested, but it is Skye’s westernmost point and the classic lighthouse view faces west.

Skye’s cloud, and the Storr without the crowds

Cloud is the bigger obstacle. Skye is one of the wetter parts of Scotland, and from autumn to midwinter it rains on most days. Give yourself several nights and stay flexible.

Winter is much quieter than summer, so it is a good time to see the Storr, the Quiraing and the rest of Trotternish without the crowds. Daylight is short, though, and some restaurants and places to stay close between November and March, so check opening times before you go.

The Skye Bridge and the Mallaig ferry

Skye is joined to the mainland by the Skye Bridge at Kyle of Lochalsh, about 34 miles from Portree. From Inverness the drive takes around two and a half hours, and Citylink buses run to Portree from both Inverness and Glasgow. The CalMac ferry from Mallaig to Armadale runs all year with a reduced winter timetable.